An em-pao-ring experience at Kitchen

Delhi may be the centre of power, but it’s Mumbai that’s the real pao centre. Think vada-pao, misal-pao, pao-bhaji and, of course, kheema-pao, the staple of meat-loving Mumbaikars.

Glad tidings for the pao hungry. The Kitchen, tucked in a corner of Khan Market’s middle lane, dishes out a delightful version of the stuff. Although the tiny new eatery does mainly western and far eastern fare, it’s this desi dish that’s the star of the menu.

The kheema is spiced just right, and unlike its sadak chhap avatar, doesn’t come floating in a sea of oil. The pao is soft and flaky, and as a concession to Delhi tastes, it’s braised in a bit of butter. But if you’re a pao purist, you can ask them to serve it oven-fresh. A smidgen of onion-tomato koshimbir adds just the right tang.

Forget those manicured nails. Dip your fingers in the meat and wipe it clean with a crust of pao.

Loosen your corset and allow yourself a contented sigh.

The Kitchen, 75, Khan Market, New Delhi 110003. Telephone: 41757960 and 41757961.
Email: kitchen.delhi@gmail.com