In China and Ada Hind Ki

China and India. Chindia. Indo-Chine. Whichever way you look at it, the two giants seem to be locked in a tussle. Competitors. Rivals. One seeking to do outdo the other in economy, productivity, population.

Me, I’m a pacifist. Live and let live, I say. The world’s big enough for both. That’s why I love it when the HM Group (the guys behind Amoeba, Three Quarter Chinese and other eateries) sets up a restaurant that brings together the two great countries and their superlative cuisines. In China occupies the ground floor. Ada Hind Ki is right on top. (And any interpretations you draw from the placement is solely yours.)

Spread across 8000sq ft, In China has a well-stocked bar and lounge leading to the open deck and a private dining area for small and large groups, apart from the regular dining area. The decor is tasteful and subtle — none of that in-your-face dragon and gilt — but the food set my tastebuds on fire. I started off with the Dong Quar Chung soup, a thick concoction with chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetables, and followed it up with flaming jumbo prawns in a satay sauce and roasted sesame lamb. But the must-haves in my book? The corn kernel pepper salt and the braised chicken in chu hou soya sauce. Innovatively titled Treasure Bags — yummy pastry filled with mixed fruity treasures — wound up the meal and left the greedy me wanting for more.

Just as well there’s Ada Hind Ki. It caters to the discerning spice-lover in me, with super-delish chaats and succulent kebabs (recommended: the Jalpari Kebab and Murg ki Parchhi). The show kitchen here is a show-stopper and watching Chefs Musharraf (yeah, this place is all about being nice to the neighbours) and Prem Singh whip up light-as-air roomalis and rescue perfectly charred hunks of meat from the tandoor.

So which is my favourite? Now that’d be telling!

In China and Ada Hind Ki, 31 Museum Road, H.M. Eleganza. Tel: 40001234. Meals for two: around Rs800.