New Orient Rising
Listen when I say: the horseradish has landed!
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Wasabi, feted by critics as India’s trendiest morsel, just served up seconds. Mumbaikars can quit crowing; Celebrity chef Morimoto has risen on Delhi’s horizon, and I got a sneak-peek into his new kitchen at the Taj Mahal hotel.
Going live on Wednesday, May 21, Wasabi’s gonna be the place to see — and be seen at. Monochrome decor colour-washed with light, mirrored ceiling and fanciful glass baubles, this 54-seater jewel box expects queues! Hit the bar for a cocktail while you wait. I loved the Nippon Mary (Smirnoff Black, tomato juice, ponzu, teriyaki sauce, spot of wasabi and sichuan rim) and the Kappa cooler (Ichiko with peach, kiwi, cucumber, grapefruit juices).
Aim for the seats at the live sushi bar or teppan counter. Note: only the Nippon-naive order sushi as a starter. Trendy gyaru (gals) eat edamame — as fingerfood — squeezing pods toothpaste-style to pop milky-sweet soyabeans into mouth! (Great alternative to bar peanuts!)
Wasabi’s ‘contemporary Japanese’ menu carries signatures that made Nobu shine and gave Morimoto’s eponymous chain fillip. The artfully stacked (but hugely deep fried) Morimoto tempura with cheese sauce scares me silly. His rock shrimp tempura, and the veggie ‘rock corn’ is kinder. First-course faves: broiled king crab on the half-shell, steamed scallops with ginger and scallion, aona goma ae (Japanese spinach in sesame sauce and chilli oil). On to teppanyaki — tofu, chicken, tenderloin. But saving space for Nobu-classic black cod miso. Alternatives: steamed sea-bass in black-bean sauce, splashed with infused hot oil; or stuffed kabocha pumpkin. Now get sushi and sashimi (yes, yes, flown in from Tsukiji every other day).
Let the sun set on your kaiseki with green-tea ice cream with azuki (red bean) sauce. Looks, there’s no other way to say it, yucky, but oh, it sure slurps yummy.
Wasabi, Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi; ph: 66513585, 230261612. Prices: Rs 5,000 per head (including a drink).










