Salt Water reborn in Bandra

So what if it’s not facing the ocean and you can’t dig your toes into the sand anymore, even as you dig into fare that’s as delish as before? I was thrilled to hear that the much-mourned-since-it-shut-down Salt Water Grill, one of Sobo’s most alluring dining destinations, was reinventing itself in the queen of the burbs. Bandra’s fab new Salt Water Cafe is open all day, starting with breakfast at 9am! The clean lines of wooden furniture cast in situ, a sun deck for al fresco dining, a bar and a delicatessen counter spread over two levels, made this brand new space extremely tempting.

So, I waltzed in as the afternoon sunlight threw pretty patterns on the walls, courtesy the sliding wooden slatted ‘curtains’. At the entrance, a giant display case held a mouthwatering display of imported meats, cheese, preserves, salad dressings and, of course, a dozen deadly desserts. After marking out a Tiramisu to devour later, I armed myself with the menu. I was happy to discover that culinary dynamo Viraf Patel is overseeing the selections and chef Gresham Fernandes has added his individualistic touches too.

The soups were outstanding — especially the arresting green asparagus soup with white asparagus foam and crisp smoked salmon slivers or the spectacular Shiitake tea. For the entrees, it was a tough call between the Baked Lamb Chops with porcini-prune chutney and Fava bean mash and the Brazilian Tenderloin Steak. The seafood lover in me did the dance for the seared scallops and chilli-fennel cappelini and the grilled rawas and prawn okra curry. And my vegetarian friend dug into the potato gnocchi with arugula walnuts and gorgonzola and the lemon, turmeric and smoked pepper salsa Risotto with gusto!

And for next time, I have my eye on the tuna pate with tobiko and wasabi bagel and a sesame bun with bacon and spiced Brie and cranberry jam.

Unusual and adventurous. A menu after my own heart. This one, I don’t need to take with a pinch of salt.

Salt Water Cafe, Rose Minar Annexe, 87, Chapel Road, Next to Mount Carmel Church, Bandra (W), Mumbai; Tel: 26434441/ 32710520; Pricing: Approximately Rs 1,200 for two, without drinks.